Bookshelf Bar

I want to take a slightly different approach in today's post. Entertaining is a huge part of food culture and so, I want to discuss some of the issues that come up around food and entertaining here in Austin. Recently, I tried my hand at a food-related design issue that, while not unique to Austin, is certainly common among Austin residents.

Austin is a city of young people which means it is a city of apartment dwellers. While apartments are great for all of the obvious reasons (short term commitment, less expensive, etc.) there is the inevitable trade off of a smaller living space. It's difficult to feel sophisticated in your home when you're trying to balance a need for utility and a desire for style with your budget. One easy solution? The bookshelf bar.

When I moved to Austin with my boyfriend, my grandmother gave us an incredible collection of glassware: wine glasses, two sets of water goblets, champagne coupes, high balls, sherry glasses, and even sherbet glasses. Our kitchen cabinet space is limited and was already occupied by our everyday glasses and while we're not big drinkers, it seemed a shame to keep these beautiful glasses in boxes. Then I noticed my boyfriend's bookshelf standing empty in the corner. Bookshelves are inexpensive, efficient, come in a variety of styles, and seem to be one thing twenty-somethings have in excess, so why not put it to use?

Here are some guidelines that helped me create this neat little space:
-Limit the bar space to two shelves. The idea is to create an interesting and useful bar space, not just an extra cabinet.
-Arrange glasses in terms of use as well as visual interest. I doubt we'll use the sherry glasses often, but their intricate design makes them a focal point in the bar. On the other hand, we'll use the wine glasses regularly so it's best to keep them towards the front.
-A recent post from Domestic Daddy inspired me to use a wine decanter in the bar. It's an easy way to glam up this somewhat quirky space and makes it feel more James Bond than Animal House. I bought this 1950s decanter for $18 at the Georgetown Antique Mall.
-Pick a theme. I wanted to give this bar a masculine feel, so I used my boyfriend's humidor and some items from his travels and time at West Point. Keep it simple, less is more here.
-Part of what makes this idea charming is that it is a bookshelf, so fill up at least a shelf or two of books. Again, pick a theme.

You can take this idea in so many directions and it can be a very budget friendly way to redecorate. I'd love to hear about how you decorate your bar, bookshelf or otherwise. Cheers!

Bess Bistro Review

It was the first night of South by Southwest and my last night to go out. The air mattress and bike were haphazardly stored in my car, expectant of a long and difficult week ahead. Why not celebrate my last night of freedom? My boyfriend and I chose to enjoy the evening at Bess Bistro. I have always been a fan of owner and recent Oscar winner Sandra Bullock’s work on the screen, and so in an admittedly star struck way, I was anxious to try her food. I know that Bullock comes from a culinary family – her sister is a pastry chef in New England and their mother was a talented baker as well. I had high hopes, but I could not help but worry that Bess would not bring the same quality to the table that its owner does to the screen. Fortunately, my fears were quickly allayed and my appetite, sated.

Both the decor and the menu at Bess make you feel relaxed after hard week, or as in my case, before one. Cozy banquettes lit by chandeliers, a fireplace, and the painted copper ceiling are alluring and sophisticated, but in a way that feels comfortable, not stuffy. It is completely appropriate to take someone to Bess on a special occasion, but it's also appropriate to take someone there on any occasion, and once you've tried the food, often.

The website states that “the menu deliberately defies classification”, but the French and certainly Texan influences are clear. To start, we had the smoked bacon mussels and the tuna tartare. I usually shy away from mussels with tomato broths, too often it tastes like tomato soup with mussels, but this spicy yet not overpowering combination worked for me. As rustic as the mussels were with big chunks of ciabatta, the tartare was composed and elegant: layers of tuna and avocado, studded with capers, and accompanied by toast points and a balsamic reduction. The smoothness of all the flavors melded together and were cut by the proper amount of acidity and sweetness from the balsamic, capers, and lemon juice.

For our entrees, I enjoyed a croque madame (the menu says croque monsieur, but the addition of an egg makes it ladylike) while my boyfriend gave the pumpkin saffron seafood risotto a try. My dish was creamy and comforting. It strikes me that the bread is important in croque madames; you need something substantial to stand up to the egg, gruyere, and bechamel. The thick rye bread used here stood up to these gooey components, allowing me to sop them up rather than simply absorbing them. The fries could have been crispier for me, but they were still tasty and I ate most of them. I was too focused on my own meal to let my fork stray into my boyfriend's plate, but I have impression he enjoyed the risotto as there was little left at the end of the meal. Thee pecan pie looked good even on a full stomach, but we decided to pass on dessert this time.

For such a nice evening, a bill of $75 seemed entirely reasonable and so we left Bess on a pleasant note and eager to return. For now, Bess is a lovely memory in my South by Southwest reality, but one I hope to revisit soon.

Ranching: A Discussion About Cattle and Beef, No B.S.

What are the first images that pop into your head when you think of Austin?

For natives and newcomers alike, longhorns, cowboy boots, and Stetsons are among the first images that come to mind. These symbols may not be adequate representations of all things Austin today (perhaps we should add bicycles, tight black jeans, and plaid shirts?) but they do have their place in Austin’s history as part of a ranching community.

The image that I have of ranch life is a romanticized one, but one that I probably share with anyone who has ever watched a western. Now that I live only minutes away from ranches that stretch across the horizon, I wanted to take the opportunity to learn more about this Texas industry and how it is continuing to evolve.

On a sunny February morning, I sat down for tea with Wild Type Ranch owner, Sara Faivre-Davis. I found myself talking to a well educated, hard working rancher who manages the impossible task of holding to her ideals without compromising the reality of her business or her family. Sara can talk about genetics, technology, and economics just as easily as she can talk about the importance of mindfulness, compassion, and respect for life. It is almost intimidating to talk to Sara about her work, but it is inspiring as well.

Just five years ago, Sara Faivre-Davis was running an agriculture-biotech company in Austin. Successful but sleepless, Sara awoke at 3 AM to find herself questioning her dream of opening a ranch with philanthropic aims for children. “I realized I was a pretty big hypocrite if I waited until we had the money and did that for somebody else’s kids and didn’t do it for my own”. Five years later, the ranch is three hundred and thirty three acres with fifty female cows and harvesting one beef animal a week, with most of the females and about ten percent of the males being raised as reproductive animals.

Even amid the recent economic turmoil, the ranch has been successful and has even seen its profits growing. Smart business moves like lowering prices on value cuts like ground beef and stew meat, as well as stepping up advertising and online communication have helped the business. Sara also credits movies like “Food, Inc” and the general trend of locavoirism for their recent success.

More important than any trend, it is the quality of their product that is bringing Wild Type’s customers back again and again. The ranch specializes in both Red and Black Angus (the two are genetically identical save for hair color, who knew?) that is grass fed, supplemented with feed only when necessary and to provide good marbling. Organic? Not a chance. Sara refuses to compromise her cattle’s health: “If an animal is sick I’m going to give it medicine”, she says without question. “We do what’s best for our animals. We do what’s best for our family. We do what’s best for the quality of our product”.

The way Sara speaks about her animals is intriguing; words like “harvest” appear where “slaughter” is common and “process” has become acceptable. It’s not a gimmick; it’s just how Wild Type Ranch operates. “We name all of our animals […] every animal on our place is raised for a purpose”. Even Sara’s sons take part in the tastings conducted before a harvest is put on the market; the lessons learned around this dinner table are about respect as much as they are about flavor.

So what about flavor? What does our rancher recommend? For something tried and true, a rib eye on the grill. For something versatile, anything with ground beef, because grass fed ground beef is like nothing you've tried before. Finally, for something really special, beef carpaccio (photo coming soon).

Ranching today is not as it was in my head, but I don’t find that disappointing. If anything, I am glad to know that this industry is still alive, growing, changing, and that cowboy boots and hats will always be required.

Pecans

Every time I open my freezer, I see this container of pecans in the door and I smile. When the pecan harvest came in November, I was suddenly hit with the memory of a taste: My grandmother's buttery, salty roasted pecans that melt when you bite into them. It had never occurred to me as a child that there was something special, something particularly Texan, about the appearance of these tasty snacks on the coffee table during the holidays. It's so easy to forget about these local traditions that have become commonplace to us, but still say something about the unique climate and culture of where we live. You can pick up a can of pecans anywhere now, certainly not true when my grandparents moved to Dallas in the fifties, and while the mass produced varieties have more than enough salt, they lack personality and story.

When the pecans arrived at the farmers market, I bought about twenty pounds. I buy them cracked - still in the shell, but you have to wrestle them out yourself. It's more time consuming, but cheaper. There is also something fun about watching these dark and almost dirty looking shells produce the tender golden nuts inside. You start to notice the difference in the varieties (Choctaw, Cheyenne, Desirable, etc) as well as the contours, the smell, the texture. There is also a certain sense of accomplishment when you've finished shelling the nuts, and the shells can add a nice scent to a fire on one of those chilly Austin nights.

The three recipes that follow are simple and feature the pecan in different ways. The first two are vintage Texas, while the last has a more modern twist.

Roasted Pecans
Straight out of my grandma's kitchen, and probably yours too.
-One stick of butter (unsalted)
-3-4 lbs shelled pecans
-Salt
Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Spread pecans on rimmed baking sheet. Melt stick of butter and pour over pecans. Salt heavily and mix with spatula. Bake pecans, mixing stirring every fifteen minutes, until dark brown. Takes about an hour to an hour and a half.

Pecan Candies
This retro recipe is one of my favorites because it is so easy and looks so great. Great to have out at parties or to give as gifts. Be warned, they're addictive.
-Pretzel twists
-Rolo chocolate candies
-Shelled pecans
Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Arrange pretzel twists on rimmed baking sheet with a Rolo on top of each one. Place sheet in oven and allow chocolate to melt slightly, about five minutes. Push a pecan down into each chocolate, then refrigerate until firm. Store at room temperature.

Pecan Crusted Chicken Tender Salad with Maple Barbecue Dressing
I am not usually a Rachael Ray fan, but I have to give her credit on this recipe from her book, Guy Food. Men are usually uninterested in the female salad obsession, but this recipe pleases both the sexes with its crunch and tangy flavors. Click here for the recipe.

Cuer-ode

In praise of pigskin, tasty and crisp
I am writing this ode, which won't go amiss
Topped off with avocado, lettuce, and cream
Plus tomatoes, and scallions, and Valentina - a dream!
Made near the San Gabriel on a blustery fall day
By a Mexican family that must have moved away
Big enough for two, but good enough for one
Enough delicious memories, my ode is done.

Silliness aside, cueros - which roughly translates to "hides" - are really yummy. I was told that these were made of pigskin, but the ones we found at the grocery store are actually made of wheat. I was almost disappointed at the news because, while it means they are healthier than previously thought, it does take away from some of their exotic allure. Still, it is rare to find a snack food that is not terrible for you, so I will just ignore the cuero's lack of junk-foodiness and enjoy and you should too.

Don't Forget Your Reusable Bags!

Humans love rituals: They help us move through our lives, bring order to chaos, and provide comfort in the face of the unfamiliar. As I engaged in the blogger ritual of trying to pick a subject of my first real post, my mind initially went to restaurants. A restaurant review seemed like a perfectly appropriate way to start and yet, the anthropologist in me hesitated. For me, restaurants and restaurant reviews are about discovery and newness. Austin is still so new to me and while there is some ritual in trying new places, that exploration does not bring familiarity. What does make a place feel like home? Grab your reusable bags (I always forget them) because it is time to go grocery shopping!

Seriously… groceries? I grew up in Upstate New York, the land of Wegmans, which turns a trip to pick up a gallon of milk into a sacred pilgrimage and social event. Yes, grocery shopping is important to me on a personal level, but it is important to all of us. In an age of local, organic, and farm fresh overtaking imported intrigues, grocery shopping says a lot about Americans as consumers. The economy has made dining out a luxury for many, so what we literally bring to the table has become more important. These are the places that are helping me build a home… and a pantry… and an overstocked freezer…

HEB and Central Market: If you live near an HEB Plus or blissfully near both of these stores, I envy you. I really do like both of these stores and they are the closest I have ever seen to my beloved Wegmans. The Central Market set up is great because you can get some name brand non-organic alongside the organic treats. Great cheese section too. HEBs seem to vary drastically by location – the one closest to me has a tiny meat and fish section, yet a five minute drive is a huge improvement – but they are always dependable for basics.

Farmers Markets: It is the off season so I will certainly go back to this in the spring, but so far I have been to the Austin and Georgetown farmers markets. The Austin market offers a wider variety of vendors selling homemade pasta, Greek food, empanadas,ice cream, and other eat-while-you-shop options. The Georgetown market is a more traditional farm and ranch centric market and is as locavore-ous as you can get as many of the farms are only five minutes away.

Dyer Dairy Mercantile: For some, a dairy is more of a specialty shop, but as I grew up going to a local dairy for milk I decided to include it (and dedicate it to that dairy’s owner, Elsie). This is another Georgetown gem that sells milk, cheese, eggs, and seasonal vegetables raised on their farm as well as beef and honey from other local farms. I should note that this dairy is a bit out of the way, but it is well worth the trip.

Fiesta: It is a real treat to have access to Mexican foods that are fresh in some cases and simply not overpriced in others. Fiesta is also an inexpensive alternative for produce and certain basics – my grandmother and I raid the Dallas location for her favorite white wine whenever her supply runs low. They also have a much better website than one might expect, as well as offering cooking classes in some stores and other perks. Also, while I am fluent in Spanish and enjoy practicing it there, I think those who can barely pronounce "fajita" will still be able to survive.

What is usually in my fridge:
-At least five kinds of cheese
-Capri Sun juice pouches
-Asparagus, lettuce, and radishes
-Raspberries, strawberries, lemons, and apples
-Silk Vanilla Soymilk
-Sliced turkey
-Coca Cola and Dublin Dr. Pepper
-An unnecessary number of partially used sauces
-Greek yogurt
-More cheese

What is your ritual? Where do you grab your grub? What do your horde or hide in the depths of your deep freeze? Let me know.

-The In and Out Sider

The Beginning

Hi, and welcome to my blog: Austin: In, Out, and About!

If you and I were meeting face to face, we would ask questions, maybe I would compliment you on your shoes and perhaps you would giggle at my jokes. Unfortunately, we are separated by our computers. Please forgive me for monopolizing the conversation as I ask and answer the questions, but I hope you get to giggle. To begin: Who am I? What is this blog about? And, of course, why should you spend your precious time reading what I have to say?

First an foremost, I am a cook and lover of food. I am also a newcomer to Austin from Boston - I do love to rhyme - and work at a restaurant downtown. My culinary education has been informal. Extensive travel, home cooking, and an interest in all things food were the only tools I took with me into my first restaurant job. I fell in love with the industry because of its challenges and constant state of reinvention. How long I will stay in the industry, I cannot say, but I hope for a long run. Before going further, I should say that I do not consider myself an expert, but merely one with a view from the kitchen as well as the dining room. Enough about me though, back to the blog.

Simply stated, this blog is about food. Sometimes that will mean restaurants, and sometimes it will mean recipes. Everything from Austin standard-setters, country gems, holes in the wall, as well as trips to the grocery store, specialty shop, and even the park will be included. There will be the occasional rant, but always with humor and laughter as the goal, not offense. The goal of this blog is to be one that informs, amuses, and provides a view of food and food culture from all angles.

It is difficult to answer the final question without sounding too self impressed, so I hope what I have said above will suffice. In the end, I want you enjoy and laugh often about what I write. I hope for myself that the public nature of blogging encourages me to write more often and explore my new home. I have no expectations of blog stardom, but who knows. Best of luck to us both.

The In and Out Sider